Gardening Tips

Focus on choosing and planting colorful, user-friendly annuals and watch them strut their stuff. There are numerous, easy-to-grow, admirable annuals willing to bloom all season with flourishing abundance. Not only are they a pleasure to look at with their snap-crackle-and-pop but, they make excellent, natural-looking bouquets.

Consider placement of your cutting garden in an out-of-the-way area because, when you snip your bountiful supply of flowers with inspired abandon, you won't be overly concerned with how it all looks. And, before you can say Jack Sprat, more buds will begin to form and MULTIPLY. For many years I've gladly gussied up our vegetable garden by planting a cutting garden along one side. Honeybees are attracted to the vibrant annuals which is a tremendous benefit as well.

Making friends with annuals, without a doubt, has the following advantages: they're easy to plant, quick to bloom and re-bloom, numerous varieties to choose from, a symphony of color ALL season, simple to remove or rototill in the fall and economically feasible when you save the seeds for future years. PLUS there is no concern, whatsoever, about summoning the Foreign Legion to laboriously dig up spreaders and DIVIDE.

Be willing to try different varieties of plants and seeds each year and, YOU be the judge. The following star performers are some of my favorite, charming and reliable annuals which are ideal for vases of various sizes and colors: Blue Salvia, Cleome, Cosmos, Larkspur, Lisianthus, Marigolds, Nasturtium, Nierembergia (a tender perennial native to Argentina, used as an annual), Snapdragons (Rockets, in particular), Sweet Peas and bold and beautiful Zinnias.

Dear friendly reader: Bless your creation by focusing positive thoughts and words as you design and plant. A gracious pleasure is to surprise someone with an unexpected bunch of classic, home-grown flowers assembled with TLC.

HOT HINTS

Art and passion count. Staggering plants in a zig-zag pattern-- not soldiering them in a straight line-- results in a full, lush array with visual impact. Also, a curved bed is superb feng shui. Perennials, feverfew and baby's breath are wonderful filler flowers for your one-of-a-kind, beautiful bouquets. Herbs, dill and fennel are attractive fillers as well. In addition, I always allow some chive and garlic-chive plants to flower.

The Amen of nature is always a flower.

~ Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr., American writer (1809-1894)

May 2010

WHY PRUNE?

By Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

The branch collar is the swollen area of trunk tissue that forms around the base of a branch. If you prune away the branch collar, you remove not only branch wood, but also trunk wood, opening the plant to possible decay. The branch bark ridge on trees is a line of rough bark running from the branch-trunk crotch into the trunk bark. It is less prominent on some trees than on others. The best pruning cut is made outside the branch collar, at a 45 to 60 degree angle to the branch bark ridge.

WHY PRUNE?

1) To improve the appearance or health of a plant. Prompt removal of diseased, damaged, or dead plant parts speeds the formation of callus tissue and sometimes limits the spread of insects and disease. For trees, pruning a dense canopy permits better air circulation and sunlight penetration. Remove crossing branches that rub or interfere with each other and those that form narrow crotches.

2) To control the size of a plant. Pruning reduces the size of a plant so that it remains in better proportion with your landscape. Pruning can also decrease shade, prevent interference with utility lines and allow better access for pest control.

3) To prevent personal injury or property damage. Remove dead or low limbs to make underlying areas safer. Corrective pruning also reduces wind resistance in trees. Prune shrubs with thorny branches back from walkways and other well-traveled areas. You may want to call upon the services of trained or certified arborists to handle any pruning work in the crowns of large trees.

4) To train young plants. Train main scaffold branches (those that form the structure of the canopy) to produce stronger and more vigorous trees. You'll find it easier to shape branches with hand pruners when a plant is young than to prune larger branches later. Pruning often begins with young plants for bonsai, topiary, espalier, or other types of special plant training.

5) To influence fruiting and flowering. Appropriate pruning of flower buds encourages early vegetative growth. You can also use selective pruning to stimulate flowering in some species and to help produce larger (though fewer) fruits in others.

6) To rejuvenate old trees and shrubs. As trees and shrubs mature, they may become unattractive. Pruning can restore vigor and enhance the appearance of these plants as well.

HOT HINT: To avoid shocking plants, heavy pruning should be accomplished while they are dormant in he winter months.

Natural abilities are like natural plants; they need pruning by study.

~ Red Auerbach, NBA Coach, 1917-2006

April 2010

YOUR OUTDOOR PALETTE

By Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Is it time to create a new, gorgeous garden or artfully transform a portion of your landscape? Kick your creativity up a notch and read on.

Consider the following when choosing your color (aka hue) theme for planting shrubs, trees and flowers:

- background
- colors of your house, shutters, doors and other
buildings
- Another meaningful consideration would be
your favorite colors, of course.

Avoid too many different plants and hues which may culminate in a discombobulated and jarring

appearance. A tranquil setting is far more restful, captivating and healing than a frenetic array. Tasteful beauty brings pleasure to the brain and spirit!

Cool colors (blue, green, purple, violet) have a soothing and peaceful effect. Usually, they will recede and make an area appear larger. Be careful using cool hues because they can also lose their punch and nearly fade from view. I recommend placing plants with cool colors in the foreground.

Warm colors (yellow, orange, red) are dramatic and stir excitement.They almost seem to leap towards you and bring the display closer. The eye very quickly focuses on red. White will also appear to come forward. To create a feeling of distance, utilize warm hues in the front of the garden or landscape and cool colors towards the back.

A monochromatic (tints, tones or shades of one hue) theme is serene and soothing, indeed a gift to the eyes. You could initiate your design with one color of a flower, shrub, herb, etc. and add several more, or other choices, with tints, tones or shades of your initial planting.

Opposite hues on the color wheel, such as a red and green combo, are energetic and will pop. Originally, this is the reason most barns were painted red because the red structures looked great against the green grass and fields. They still do, may I add.

Repeating shades and tints of your outdoor palette ties a creation of beauty together and produces a pleasant, flowing display and experience for the eyes of the viewer. The repetition concept also applies, not only to colors but to the selection of shrubs, trees and other growth. Also, I love to closely match one or two sets of specifics. Examples would be: burgundy shrubs fairly near burgundy door; blue hydrangeas fairly near blue shutters. Embellish what you already have!

HOT HINTS

It's wise to determine the expected maturity size of plantings before making a purchase. Also, choosing the appropriate varieties concerning sun-loving or shade-type plants, pertinent to your location, is very sensible. For the most part, there's neither success nor satisfaction in forcing a plant to grow where it doesn't want to live. Incorporating artful curves in your yard, whether it's a brick walkway, driveway, garden bed, pathway, etc., contributes to an interesting, attractive appearance and is very good Feng Shui.

Love of beauty is taste. The creation of beauty is art.

~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

March 2010

JUMP START YOUR GARDEN

by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Everything begins with a thought. Contemplate and create plans for your upcoming gardening endeavors. An excellent way to connect to nature and nourish the mind, body and spirit is to think positively about gardening plans. Peruse seed catalogs. They are a wonderful source of inspiration, information and offer many varieties which are not to be found in local stores.

Start planning your 2010 garden now! Photo copyright Diana L. Ferrari.

You can start seeds for flowers and vegetables indoors in almost any type of container. It's easy as 1-2-3! Seedlings will need to be lifted out and transplanted into a larger container when they are ready or, they can be planted outdoors when there is no longer danger of frost.

One of the easiest and neatest methods is to plant seeds in individual, expandable peat pellets. Not only is there no mess to deal with but, the seedlings will experience little or no transplant shock or root damage when planted. It's simple as do-re-me!

Try my user-friendly seed-starting instructions and don't stop 'til you get enough:

Set pellets in a tray; cover them with water. I suggest leaving one to two inches between each pellet to allow for expansion
Make 2 or 3 holes in each expanded pellet (now a peat pot) using a pencil. Carefully insert a seed into each hole; then pinch the pot to cover the seeds.
Place pots in a warm area (about 70-75 degrees). Keep pots moist, but not soggy.
When seedlings sprout move them to a cool, sunny window.
Keep only one strong and healthy seedling per pot. Snip off the others.
Transfer seedlings to a cold frame or place outdoors for a few hours daily, for one week, to acclimate them to the real world.
When weather permits it's time to plant your seedlings, peat pot and all.

HOT HINT

You are not alone. I can personally guarantee it won't be a thriller if you lose any newly planted seedlings to cutworms. You can beat it! Sledgehammers won't work here but you can protect your young, tender plants from those smooth criminals by installing paper cups. Using TLC, push a cup with the bottom removed into the soil surrounding each plant leaving a scant 2" tall collar per seedling.

TIMELY SPRING CHORES

by Debora Reynolds, SGC Horticulture Committee

Follow these recommendations for preparing for this year's growing season and you'll be glad you did later on.

Avoid walking on wet soil, which will compact it. Wait until the ground dries to start working in your flower and veggie beds. To test the moisture level, squeeze a clump of soil in your hand. If it breaks apart when you open your hand it is dry enough to work.

Transplant and divide Galanthus (snowdrops) after the flowers fade but while the foliage is still green. If you have spring crocus that bloom this month, divide them just as the foliage has yellowed and died.

When winter storms are over, remove trunk covers from protected trees. If a tree that was staked is growing straight, remove the stakes.

Prune trees in early March while they are still dormant. Don’t trim spring flowering shrubs such as lilac, magnolia, and forsythia until after they finish blooming.

Properly vent your greenhouse during early spring when fluctuating temperatures are common. Open the windows on mild days and close them before nightfall.

It's time for houseplants to break their dormancy. You can fertilize at every second watering.

Tune up your lawn mower. Replace the spark plugs, clean the air filter, remove any grass and debris, and get the blades sharpened and balanced.

Remember to keep turning your compost pile and keep it moist but not too wet.

Celebrate the arrival of spring on March 20th and hope that the dreaded New England mud season is a short one!

Having a garden not only can produce nutritional food, glorious
flowers and induce exercise but, the beauty of nature brings serenity
to the brain and spirit.
~Diana L. Ferrari

February 2010

GOT SALT?

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

During the picturesque, wintry months our roads are often treated with much needed salt applications. Some of the valued application(s) may scatter on a portion of one's lawn or, possibly a run-off situation occurs which c Stella dOro daylily. Photo copyright Mary OConnor.

Stella dOro daylily. Photo copyright Mary OConnor.

an float salt to a part of your property. If you experience this state of affairs, are willing to accept the challenge to grow plants in this area, and have perseverance, read on.

While no plants are convivial soul mates with salt or a saline-type soil, these energizer bunnies may survive this winter treatment and keep on going better than others:

Stella d'Oro daylily (Hemerocallis), shown above
Lemon daylily (Hemerocallis lilio-asphodelus)
Tiger lily (Lilumlancifolium)
various Lupines (Lupinus species)
Moss Pink (Phlox subulata)
Goldentuft alyssum (Auriniasaxatilis)
several of the Stonecrops (Sedum species)
Beach roses (Rosa rugosa), are tenacious and possess a can-do attitude.

So, dear Reader, curl up in a cozy spot, with coffee cup in hand, and mull over these suggestions.

Another point. Do not rule out the possibility of rectifying your soil. Consider submitting a soil sample to a laboratory for analysis. Ask for a sodium test and a pH reading and request that corrective recommendations be included. A soil heavy in clay may need an application of gypsum (calcium sulfate) before leaching. If you are unable to obtain a sodium test, apply the average gypsum application of 100 pounds of calcium per 1000 square feet of area.

HOT HINT

Take heart - sometimes sandy, well-drained soil can be washed free of salt simply by watering heavily.

Source: "Horticulture"

Perseverance is a great element of success.

~Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

December 2009

GIVE AN HERBAL PLANTER, THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Design this easy-to-make and useful gift for yourself or your loved ones. A portable container which can be placed near or on a sunny windowsill makes a wise choice as a planter for culinary herbs.

Plant your most favorite herbs or, consider the following tasty choices which snuggle and live happily together because they all have things in common. They appreciate a warm, sunny spot with well-drained soil and need water only when the soil feels dry to the touch. Keep in mind they grow well in the hot, dry Mediterranean climate.

Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) - Both fresh and dried leaves are excellent additions to roasted vegetables, meat, sauces and soup. I love fresh sprigs of Rosemary used as a garnish, secured uprightly.
Sage (Salvia officinalis) - Fresh or dried leaves add a pungent twist to sausage, stuffing and breads.
Sweet Marjoram (Origanum marjorana) - Belongs to the same genus as earthy Oregano. This herb is perfect in spaghetti sauce, pizza and egg dishes.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) - Superb in soups, stews and sauces.

Most herbs will be content in any container so feel free to be creative and dazzle your loved ones or yourself with your selections. You may need to make drainage holes in the bottom of your planter and include a drainage dish. Use high-quality planting soil and leave ample room for the plants to grow freely. Liquid sea kelp and fish emulsion are good fertilizer choices.

HOT HINTS

Design your herbal planter with one of the herbs cascading by positioning the plant at a near 45 degree angle, encouraging the attractive foliage to drape over the edge.
Most herbs taste the best before they flower.
Combine the herb(s) of your choice with olive oil for a luscious drizzle before roasting a combination of cut-up veggies. We like to kick it up a notch by including more-than-a-few hot pepper flakes! Use also as a dip for crusty, grain bread.

To cherish peace and goodwill, to be plenteous in mercy,
is to have the real spirit of Christmas.

~President Calvin Coolidge

November 2009

COMPOSTING: YIMBY! (Part 2 of 2)

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Unlike sprawling compost piles, this YIMBY (Yes! In My Back Yard) compost bin keeps the contents neatly contained. Air can circulate freely, which is essential for breaking down the ingredients AND, this bin opens on any side, so it's super-easy to turn the pile.

Compost bin. Photo copyright Diana L. Ferrari.

Place your compost bin in a level, well-drained area in full sun, with good air circulation. ADD equal parts brown and green wastes, MINUS chemicals. To aerate the pile, mix or toss frequently with a garden fork, or poke air holes into it with a broom handle. Keep the pile moist, like a sponge, but not soaking wet. The process is finished when the bottom of the pile has dark, rich soil which willingly crumbles in your hand. Hmmm . . . Black Gold!

What you need to build your own bin:

Eight 6-foot 2x4's
Thirty-two 5/16-inch x 2-inch carriage bolts, nuts and washers.
Four 3-inch door hinges
Four large hook-and-eye assemblies
12-foot x 36-inch hardware cloth, 1/2-inch squares
Poultry wire staples
Waterproof construction adhesive

Recommended tools:

Table or circular saw
Rafter square
Power drill
Chisel
Rasp
Tin snips
Pliers
Heavy-duty work gloves

Let's Get Building...You CAN Do It!

1. Cut each 2x4 in half to make 16 3-foot pieces.

2. Cut a 3-1/2-inch x 3/4-inch deep notch (a rabbet) in both ends of each piece. You can do this on a table saw or with a circular saw. Make several close cuts (about 1/8 inch apart) across the grain in the notched section. Use a hammer and chisel to break out the wood between these cuts. Smooth with a rasp.

Compost bin, side. From birdsandblooms.com.

3. Fit notched ends together to make four 3-foot-square frames. Drill holes for two carriage bolts in the opposite corners of each notch (see illustrations).

4. Use construction adhesive in each joint before assembling. The nuts should face the outside so the bolts won't catch on your clothes when you're turning the pile. Use tin snips to cut the hardware cloth into four 3-foot-square sections.

5. Tack each corner of the hardware cloth to the frame with poultry wire staples. Then staple around the frame every 2 inches.

Compost bin, hinges. From birdsandblooms.com.

6. Connect two frames with two door hinges, then put two hook-and-eye gate latches on the other ends. Repeat this step for the remaining two frames. Stand the frames to form a square and latch the sections together.

7. Stand back and admire the results of your "Yankee Ingenuity." Then, fill 'er up!

Source: Birds and Blooms

October 2009

COMPOSTING: YIMBY! (Part 1 of 2)

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Composting offers a YIMBY (Yes! In My Back Yard) solution to the organic components of the municipal, solid waste stream.

Yard trimmings make up at least 13% of what households put out for disposal. Food wastes comprise another 10% of the total waste volume. That works out to about 200 pounds of yard trimmings and another 150 pounds of food waste per person, annually. These two segments alone can reduce our total waste volume by almost one fourth and yield an end product-- COMPOST, a very valuable soil amendment. Some gardeners use the term, "Black Gold", when referring to mature, crumbling compost.

Composting is the biological decomposition of organic matter. Decomposition occurs naturally but, it can be accelerated. Microorganisms, worms and insects break organic materials into compost. Compost contains nutrients that, when returned to the soil, are used by plants. This is nature's way of recycling. Make your garden beneficial with nutritionally-loaded, friable soil!

Compost tumbler. Photo copyright Diana L. Ferrari.

Any natural, organic material can be composted. Examples are grass clippings, weeds, tree leaves, hedge clippings, straw, livestock manures and kitchen produce waste. Also, many manufactured organic materials that are NOT waxed or plastic-coated, such as newspapers, paper boxes, clothing scraps and wood shavings are compostable and may be used. DO NOT include toxic items that contain any type of chemicals.

You can make a compost pile in a back corner of your vegetable garden or build or buy a bin which will keep a neat appearance. This is a good thing and every gardening aficionado should have one.

Debora Reynolds, SGC's Horticulture Committee Member, enjoys her tumbler-style composter, shown above.

Join me next month and learn how to build a user-friendly, compost bin.

Source: University of Arkansas, Agriculture

The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature.
To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.

~Alfred Austin

September 2009

MOONLIGHT BECOMES THEM!

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Moonflower vine (Ipomoea alba) boastfully produces white, stunning flowers which become willing show-offs at night! PLUS, moonlight becomes them. I'm thrilled at the sight!

Moonflower vine image used under Creative Commons license.

At sunset the attractive blossoms begin to unfurl, emitting a pleasant, light fragrance. This annual climber bears a strong resemblance to the old-time, beloved, morning glories but, the vines intentionally grow taller with larger flowers and leaves. Both annuals have heart-shaped leaves, are easy to grow and have a charming appearance.

My experience has been that a mere two or three seeds of the moonflower vine (and morning glories as well) will flourish into a "knock-your-socks-off" array which is admired all season. Provide them with a sturdy trellis, fence or other support with strings. The enchanting moonflower vine prefers full sun and moist soil.

Night-blooming flowers open in the evening to release their fragrance. They are attracting night-flying pollinators such as moths. Other night-blooming annuals to consider are the angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), night phlox (Zaluzianskya capensis), and night-scented stock (Matthiola longipetala).

Night-blooming perennials include August hosta (Hosta plantaginea), lemon lily (Hemerocallislilioasphodelus), and citron daylily (H. citrina). 'Alaskan midnight', 'ice dancer', and 'nautical nights' are also nocturnal daylilies. Among woody plants, both the ear-leaved umbrella tree (Magnolia fraseri) and the sweet bay (M. virginiana) are night-scented.

For a more comprehensive list, refer to The Evening Garden: Flowers and Fragrance from Dusk till Dawn by Peter Loewer.

HOT HINT

Consider planting moonflower vine seeds at the base of your mailbox or lamp post. I recommend starting them indoors in peat pots mid-April. Showy, elegant blossoms will furnish a unique landmark for your visitors arriving in the evening and, will provide you with a welcoming sight upon returning home from a night out.

Source: About Gardening

Moonlight is sculpture.

~Nathaniel Hawthorne

July/August 2009

UNWANTED PESTS

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Chives. Photo copyright Diana L. Ferrari.

Certain plants await the arrival of and are ready, willing and able to repel some unwanted pests-- sorry folks, I don't mean the in-laws!!! I'm talking about garden pests. Planting the following helpful allies in or near your vegetable garden will greatly reduce, or eliminate entirely, the need for poisonous pesticides:

Old-time, reliable marigolds. Marigold roots secrete a substance that destroys unwanted nematodes and eel worms.
Gutsy garlic or even garlic’s cousins, the ornamental alliums. All types of alliums are attractive and they exude enzymes from their roots which are toxic to many lurking pests.
Rue, mint, tansy, lavender, sage, rosemary and wormwood all deter a variety of destructive pests. Therefore, consider including these herbs in your garden designs.
Nifty nettles attract early, bothersome aphids which are food items for emerging, friendly ladybugs.
Nestling nasturtiums are irresistible to those pesky aphids; so utilize nasturtiums as a charming decoy. Plant them well away from the vegetable garden as the aphids’ private dining room.

HOT HINTS

When strolling through your garden bring along a cup of water and tap harmful insects into their very own bath water.
Early in the morning is the time to hand-pick slippery, slimy, slithering slugs. I know it won't be pretty but, you can do it!
Plant carrots and beets primarily to snip tender greens for interesting additions to your healthy salads.

Half the interest of a garden is the constant exercise of the imagination.

~ Mrs. C. W. Earle

June 2009

GROW YOUR OWN. GET A FISTFUL OF DOLLARS!

by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee

Lettuce. Photo copyright Diana L. Ferrari.

Yes, you can save that and even more by planting a vegetable garden that's organic as well as uncomplicated.

Dear friendly Reader, let us reason together. When we consider the ever-increasing prices of food items today, it behooves one to take an interest in planting some sort of a vegetable garden. Also, every time we venture out and the pedal-goes-to-the-metal, it SUBTRACTS from our income and precious hours.

You may like a raised bed, loaded with friable soil, which would be user-friendly on the back. Perhaps a few fruit-bearing trees would be a wise addition if you have space for them. Envision luscious strawberry plants for everyone to admire. Tasty herbs would be another smart and healthy choice to plant. Clearly, herbs are superb in home cooking and creative garnishes will add ambiance to your dinners.

When shopping, you can choose both seeds and plants. The myriad choices are yours. You will find pleasure and feel a sense of accomplishment in watching your nutrient-filled garden grow. There is nothing better and more rewarding than dining on your home-grown, organic fresh fruits and vegetables.

Organic gardening means MINUS chemicals. PLUS, freshly picked fruits and vegetables have more nutritional value. By having your very own garden, you are in control and there is no need to pick your produce far before your dining time.

If you are not a gardening enthusiast, at least fill a few extra large pots or decorative planters with some of your favorite salad components and watch them MULTIPLY. Delectable radishes, tempting red and green lettuce varieties, spinach, swiss chard, chives, snow peas and tomatoes are easy to grow. Container plantings do require watering more frequently than the traditional garden plot. Release your inner gardener and expect good things!

Ahhh, now I can see you smiling, harvesting your valued produce and patting yourself on the back. As for the tuned-in, well-seasoned gardener . . . inspire a good deal of interest by planting a different variety of delicious lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, or squash, etc. each year.

HOT HINTS

The darker in color the fruit or vegetable is, the more nutrition it contains.
Create fantastic salads, with eye appeal, by combining several various types, textures and colors of vegetables, fruit and protein in artistic presentations.
The more different flavors, i.e. pungent, hot, sweet, etc., that are incorporated, the more dining satisfaction there is.

Until next time, I wish you a fistful of lettuce in one hand and "a fistful of dollars" in the other.

May 2009

RAIN GARDENS

by Maria Capella, SGC Horticulture Committee

Although rain gardens have been around for a while many people have never heard of them. You have probably passed by a rain garden here in Suffield every day-- at the intersection of South Main and Bridge Streets.

What is a rain garden? A rain garden is a landscape or streetscape that consists of a shallow depression designed to collect and filter storm water. Every time it rains, storm water runoff from roads and parking lots is collected by the rain garden. The runoff is absorbed into the garden soil and the plants growing there.

Rain gardens can trap 99 percent of pollutants contained in storm runoff such as oil, metals and fertilizers. Even the mulch covering the garden assists in the filtration process. Rain gardens can be planted along streams, roads and ponds, anywhere there is storm runoff.

The Bridge Street Island rain garden was designed to create year-round visual interest. Evergreen shrubs are the foundation of the garden. In early spring daffodils awaken. Come mid-spring, Stella Doro daylilies and irises are in bloom followed by roses. The roses bloom until frost and Russian Sage helps with the summer color display.

The Suffield Garden Club, which maintains the island, uses eco-friendly products to control pests and diseases. The previous roses in the garden could no longer be maintained in this manner so a new disease-resistant variety called 'Theresa Buget' was planted.

See the University of Connecticut web site for a complete guide on how to build and design your own rain garden.

Suffield Garden Club, Inc. PO Box 164 Suffield CT 06078-0164